Category archives: Fashion

  • Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist, Lorna Tucker’s documentary on iconoclastic British designer Vivienne Westwood, has a trim runtime of 80 minutes. Maybe that’s why it feels like there’s a lot missing. How do you encompass the life and work of someone who 1) is half responsible for inventing British punk, 2) has evolved from an anti-establishment outsider into a revered fashion designer and beloved British subject, and 3) has had a fascinating personal life as well? This could have been a documentary series. With the short shrift given various aspects of Westwood’s life and work, this nonlinear, nonchronological film yields more questions than answers. (Thank goodness for Wikipedia.) So it’s probably best to experience the interviews, archival photos, video clips and stock footage representing Westwood’s 77 years on earth as an impressionistic wash of information and fantastical visuals. In some ways, it’s a fitting framework for a wildly unconventional artist who has never done anything neatly or predictably. The film begins with current-day Westwood looking overwhelmed as she asks crankily, “Do we have to cover every bit of it? So boring…” She's reassuringly punk from the get-go. Tucker largely lets her subject narrate her own story, with input from husband, sons, employees and various others who have known her. We learn that she began making clothes at 11 or 12, around the same time that a painting of the crucifixion instilled the desire to save people and "preve[...]
  • Many of us get dressed and undressed everyday without much thought. But for some people, changing in and out of clothing, or dealing with buckles, zippers and laces can be a frustrating task. According to Fashionista.com, in the U.S. alone, there are 59 million people living with disabilities, and 'their clothing options are greatly limited.' Thankfully, 'adaptive wear' has emerged as type of clothing made for people of all abilities that adheres to various function and style needs. Photo Credit: Lucy Jones Design And thanks to programs like Runway of Dreams Foundation and Parsons' Open Style Lab (OSL), there has been an increase in the availability of clothing geared for children and adults of all abilities. In addition, Target has rolled out a 'collection of sensory-friendly apparel for children,' including items with zip-off sleeves, side openings, or openings in the back for those who are sitting or lying down. At Parsons' Open Style Lab (OSL), designers, engineers, and occupational therapists work in unison to create accessible wearables. OSL was initiated at MIT in 2014, the program aims to challenge the fashion industry to consider the variety and uniqueness of all bodies, ages and abilities in the world. And designing for the underserved leads to better products for everyone —a core tenet of Open Style lab’s curriculum Watch video below to learn more about Runway of Dreams and adaptive wear https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=hEdCmCSPmJY [...]
  • For those of you who might not recognize the fashion label Barragán, you are now in for an unexpected treat! Led by Victor Barragán, the edgy label has now attracted almost 45,000 Instagram followers. Not a bad feat for a brand new, small label. https://www.instagram.com/p/BSEWsB3hNhK/?taken-by=barragannnn In seasons past, Barragán issued looks that included 'jewelry fashioned out of sex toys or raw fruit, and bags fabricated to look like rocks.' Victor Barragán tells Fashionista that the label began when he started making DIY, tongue-in-cheek shirts. The label quickly expanded to a full line. "For me, fashion is more than just about selling clothing for wholesale — it's about telling a story," he says. https://www.instagram.com/p/BXVd-n6Bmc0/?taken-by=barragannnn The label's daring looks have led the design team to gain a selling slot at Opening Ceremony, as well as collaboration opportunity with the likes of Maryam Nassir Zadeh. In addition, Barragán says that his hometown of Mexico City, and his adopted city, New York, have greatly informed his work. All of his sourced fabrics are sourced locally in NYC, while garments themselves are produced in Mexico City. https://www.instagram.com/p/BYE8GoIBf5b/?taken-by=barragannnn And what's also inspiring about this new label is that it appears to be gender fluid. 'When we're designing, we're never really thinking about gender,' he says, adding, 'I think if people are gonna wear the clothes, they'll wear th[...]
  • The 66th annual London Fashion Week kicks off on September 21, and the star to watch at the fashion event of the season is Matty Bovan — fearless designer known for creating 'clashes of textures' that are often spray painted, knitted, and or crocheted. https://www.instagram.com/p/BYipeGXnVVg/?hl=en&taken-by=babbym The York, England based upstart has worked with Marc Jacobs, and Miu Miu. Bovan is also a former junior designer at Louis Vuitton who won the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award and the LVMH Graduate Prize after graduating Central Saint Martins (CSM) in 2015. Image Credit: The Guardian And it's at Central Saint Martins where Bovan delved into the world of Knitwear: “Being able to create your own fabrics gives you more scope, he tells Artefact about his attraction to knitwear. He adds, "[knitwear] is the foundation of a lot of textiles, "[it] also gives more creative room to the design process.” Image Credit: NIKLAS HALLE'N/AFP/GETTY IMAGES Since CSM, the designer has ignited the fashion world with vibrant, color- and-texture-rich looks. The Guardian aptly connects Bovan's aesthetic with 'great tradition of wonderfully original English eccentrics that includes Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood and Bodymap.' Image Credit: The Guardian We can't wait to see what you have in store next week, Matty!  
  • The future is certainly terrifying. From climate change to our political climate, there is a lot of uncertainty. But one thing is for certain —  robots will take over the world's workforce —  especially in the world of footwear. Talk about a walk-up call!  And possibly leading the robotic revolution is the company Grabit, Inc., a materials handling solutions company. The California-based (Nike-backed) robotics startup employs 'electroadhesion' in order to automate the handling of any material. To be exact, the company, applies  'electroadhesion' via 'flat pads of electrodes that, when charged correctly, create an electric field that adheres to nearly any surface,' Bloomberg reports. Grabit’s shoemaking robot at the company’s headquarters in Sunnyvale Photo Credit: David Paul Morris/Bloomberg Unlike using human hands or pliable materials, electroadhesion can offer manufacturers the ability to work around such pesky issues like gripping materials by channeling the same sort of static cling that also makes a balloon stick to your head. Sounds simply genius? That's because it is! 'Electroadhesion has the finesse to handle something as fragile as an egg, as flimsy as soft fabric and as unwieldy as a 50-lb box,' the company says on their website. They also assert that their line of equipment provides a cheaper, faster solutions that uses less power.     And the static electricity that Grabit can yield has the ability to 'make machines work at[...]
  • Looks like Maison du Soir's gorgeous dark floral robe Isabella has already won Fall 2017. The robe has already sold out before its August 30 ship date, and according to Refinery 29, the company's second run set for September 30 shipping has also SOLD OUT. There is now a third run that will be available in November — the time to pre-order the Isabella is NOW! What's lovely and alluring about the Isabella is that it boasts a kimono floor-length style with side seam pockets and a dramatic high low hem. Image Credit: Maison du Soir The luxurious silhouette of the Isabella (also available in ivory, below) harkens back to 1940s-era movies starring eternally elegant screen legends in stylish repose at home. Image Credit: Maison du Soir But if you are ready to hang up that deteriorating pair of medical scrubs you love wearing while watching John Oliver, eating cereal, it might be the right time to invest in an au courant robe. And if you are unsuccessful in reserving an Isabella, fear not! Laura Urbanti offers a solid sender that might please your eye. Enjoy! Laura Urbinati Dressing Gown, $157, order at Yoox.  
  • Like athleisure, bodysuits have become an important fashion staple for the past few years.  So much so they've even seeped its way into haute couture shows and even this year's Met Gala with Bella Hadid rocking a sheer and glittery Alexander Wang number. https://www.instagram.com/p/BTpgA6khVlb/?taken-by=bellahadid&hl=en And just recently, Refinery 29 featured the The Negative Underwear 'Essaouira' bodysuit in black, which has sold out a record FIVE TIMES since its release. Here's a version of the same bodysuit in white (still fabulous) https://www.instagram.com/p/BPxKppDA_L6/?taken-by=negativeunderwear&hl=en The 'Essaouira' is made with a stretch eyelet fabric that the label calls its "anti-lace," Refinery reports. And the model has been worn by a multitude of famous names including Miley Cyrus, Hannah Bronfman, and Emily Ratajkowski. https://www.instagram.com/p/BNR_h2pDjQu/?taken-by=negativeunderwear&hl=en Although bodysuits are de rigueur because they are super sexy and effortlessly hug close the body, the ones made without snappers certainly come with many drawbacks, and toilet challenges, and the pantless ones can ride up, leaving you with an unflattering wedgie. As demonstrated perfectly by Mariah Carey: https://www.instagram.com/p/BS1Cz1KFtv0/ However, despite the drawbacks, bodysuits are still fun to wear, and there are so many options to choose from, including from brands like Wolford, ASOS and Need Supply Co. But if you ne[...]
  • Bucket List confession: It's been a dream of mine for quite sometime to attend the Costume Institute's Met Gala. Colloquially and affectionately referred to as “fashion’s biggest night out,” the Costume Institute's Met Gala is PEAK celebration of iconic style. And as we all know by now, this year's Met Gala was a spectacular showcase of quasi-wearable, avant-garde fashion, honoring the Costume Institute's latest exhibition on Rei Kawakubo and her label Comme des Garçons. And unlike past Met Gala events this hullabaloo was loaded with an incredible mix of celebrities smoking in a bathroom and meme-inducing sculptural looks that are still keeping the internet in a frenzy. https://twitter.com/MarcSnetiker/status/859172626362585088?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw&ref_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.allure.com%2Fstory%2Fbest-met-gala-memes-2017 But if you still haven't visited the 2017 Costume Institute exhibition on Rei Kawakubo and her label Comme des Garçons you are missing out on a treat. Here are three things you need to know about this incredible showcase. Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art Of The In-Between at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photo by Jemal #1 This showcase makes history  Aptly named Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, the exhibition highlights the reclusive designer's wide array of left-of-center, hyper-modern, sculptural constructions — retracing almost 40 years of clothing. And this is first exhibition since 1983 Yves Saint Laurent sh[...]
  • Even more awesome than the Wackids playing Rage Against the Machine using children's toys, is the announcement that world-renowned sartorialist Edward Enninful will be the new editor-in-chief of British Vogue — one of the most storied woman's magazines in the world. From his work with i-D, Italian Vogue, and W Magazine this shouldn't come as a surprise, however this is actually big news! Simply because, as Lauren Cochran aptly sums it up, Enninful is "a black man at the helm of the most established fashion magazine in Britain" — working in an industry that is predominately white and that seems to largely service more privileged sections of society. In fact British Vogue has been taken to task for "its lack of diversity in model casting." As Cochran points out, Jourdan Dunn was the first black model to grace the cover of British Vogue as its solo star in 12 YEARS! (Naomi Campbell was the last model to appear on her own cover in 2002 ). Naomi Campbell and Edward Enninful at 2016 Fashion Awards  Photo Courtesy: REX And Enninful has been highly vocal, dressing down the fashion world for its blatant lack of diversity. In a talk last year, Enninful says to an audience: “If you put one model in a show or in an ad campaign, that doesn’t solve the problem.” He continues: “We need teachers in universities, we need internships, we need people of different ethnic backgrounds in all parts of the industry. That really is the solution; you have to change it from the inside.” [...]
  • Here's a kind-of-a-shocker: Ultra-hip social marketplace Tictail's brick-and-mortar flagship is that it's not profitable. Tictail Market is the brand's one and only storefront, located in Manhattan’s Lower East Side — and surprisingly, the IRL store makes less in revenue than even many of the e-commerce site's online independent sellers. "The [brick-and-mortar] store makes about $50K a month; rent is $17K. Salaries and expenses bring us close to $8K, and that about covers it," co-founder Carl Walderkrantz admits to Forbes readers. So why is it important for an e-commerce site that pulls in millions of shoppers a week to offer an in-person experience that doesn't generate significant profits? Is it just to be able to flaunt kickass storefront gifs? (Courtesy of Tictail NYC) Walderkrantz says that while the "future is moving toward online, the joy of shopping is still synonymous with an in-person experience" for many customers. And in the tradition of other successful sites like Warby Parker, Bonobos and Away and less-that-lucative storefront was the best way to guarantee local awareness. Photo courtesy TicTail "Tictail Market literally put us on the map in this city," says Walderkrantz, adding that it gives the brand "street cred." Originally, the DIY e-commerce site was developed as a means of giving entrepreneurs the ability to build online shops. Photo courtesy of Tictail It is now touted as the 'easiest platform for discovering emerging bran[...]
  • Returning to New York Fashion Week this season is none other than Kayne West, debuting his fifth season of Yeezy for Adidas. The collection featured oversized sweatshirts, slouchy outerwear, and utilitarian trousers -- all restricted to neutral tones. See some of the looks for yourself. https://twitter.com/theyeezymafia/status/831979870066466826 West's presentation of looks also included the kickoff of the much-Instagrammed Calabasas line, Refinery 29 reports. Photo Credit: AKM-GSI The 15-minute showcase took place at Pier 59 Studios -- an old-line NYFW locale -- and attracted celebrities including his wife Kim Kardashian, sister-in-law Kylie Jenner, LaLa Anthony, Teyana Taylor, Hailey Baldwin and more. https://twitter.com/lala/status/831987657177702401 Cameos from models included Luka Sabbat and Amina Blue, and the show marked the launch of Halima Aden -- the Somali-American stunner who is IMG Models' first hijab-wearing model. https://twitter.com/Edward_Enninful/status/831968901168820226?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw The rapper/designer with Teyana Taylor Photo Credit: Walik  Check out more looks from the showcase below.
  • File this fashion endeavor under : WTF. This week, as part of New York Fashion Week, Japanese label N. Hoolywood presented to the world a Fall 2017 collection inspired by homeless people. Yes. Homeless people. Whether or not N. Hoolywood was channeling Derelicte à la Zoolander, it's safe to say this fashion label's fetishized "ode to street people" was done in poor taste. Photo: Imaxtree Ill-assorted chairs and benches wrapped around a circular runway. The models bundled up in overcoats and jackets and holding what looks like trash bags, lumbered down the pathway in somber time. To round out their looks, some models had their legs wrapped in plastic bag like material. As Daisuke Obana delineates in show notes: "As our designer traveled the cities of America, he witnessed the various ways in which people there lived on the streets and the knowledge they have acquired while doing so. His observations of these so-called homeless or street people revealed that them [sic] to be full of clever ideas for covering the necessities of life. Space blankets or moving blankets can be fashioned into coats for cold days, and plastic bags can double as waterproof boots when it rains. This season features designs that embrace their unique style of combining traditionally contrasting elements, such as unconventional layering or senses of color, along with experimental sizing." Photo: Erik Maza on Instagram In reality, there are over 600,000 homeless people in the United Sta[...]